Impact of yarn type (fiber content), yarn fineness, and structural variation on width contraction of flat-knitted rib derivatives

A.K.M. Mobarok Hossain; Md. Abdullah Al. Mamun; Md. Faisal Mahmud; A T M Faiz Ahmed

doi:10.25367/cdatp.2025.6.p195-214

Authors

A.K.M. Mobarok Hossain Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology, Dhaka https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3956-2241
Md. Abdullah Al. Mamun Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX), Dhaka, Bangladesh. https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4704-6327
Md. Faisal Mahmud Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh
A T M Faiz Ahmed Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX), Dhaka, Bangladesh https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9508-044X

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2025.6.p195-214

Keywords:

Machine gauge, Wale density, Double Jersey, Plain Rib (1×1 Rib), Fabric Contraction

Abstract

This study systematically examines width-wise contraction in double jersey knit fabrics produced on a flatbed rib knitting machine, emphasizing the influence of yarn fiber composition, yarn fineness, and structural variations. Fabrics with different structural designs were manufactured using plied yarns composed of 100% cotton, 100% polyester, and polyester-cotton blends (50% for both) across different yarn counts, all knitted under a uniform machine gauge and stitch settings to ensure structural consistency. Subsequently, the wale densities of these samples were measured after dry relaxation, and a modified analytical formula was employed to conveniently calculate the width contraction for rib-based flat-knitted structures. The results revealed that fiber type has a pronounced effect, with cotton-based fabrics exhibiting higher contraction compared to polyester, although the yarn-consisting blend of these fibers showed a statistically non-significant difference in width contraction either with Cotton or Polyester. Yarn fineness (tex) showed a strong negative correlation with width contraction, as validated by a high co-efficient of determination (R² > 0.95), indicating its predictive power. Structural variations, such as jersey type, missing-needle patterns, and rib configurations (such as simple ribs and broad ribs) were found to have notable effects on contraction owing to their impact on wale density and fabric geometry, and statistical analyses confirmed the substantial influence of such structural choices on width contraction. This study provides critical insights into the predictive control of fabric width during the design and manufacturing stages.

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